- #SERIAL VS PARALLEL CUSTOM WATER LOOPS HOW TO#
- #SERIAL VS PARALLEL CUSTOM WATER LOOPS SERIAL#
- #SERIAL VS PARALLEL CUSTOM WATER LOOPS FULL#
- #SERIAL VS PARALLEL CUSTOM WATER LOOPS SERIES#
If you use the parallel or serial ports, you can just use the LED and a resistor or two and the necessary parts to connect the LED directly.
#SERIAL VS PARALLEL CUSTOM WATER LOOPS HOW TO#
Here's info on how to do that: ĭo I need a microprocessor? No, you don't need a microprocessor in the external device (obviously your computer has a microprocessor :-P). My preference is to use the ioctl() system call under Linux to directly control the parallel-port pins. Serial and parallel ports can be controlled via a variety of different interfaces. USB is frightfully complicated for a simple project, so forget it. How do I send data? Depends on the port and the operating system.
This kind of hardware hacking is more fun and easy under Linux, though, so GCC is a good choice. It's important to remember that computer ports in general are designed to only output signaling voltages, and not to produce enough current to actually power most devices. Most parallel ports have enough power to drive an LED. That way I can keep playing and simply turn the volume down some until the problem with the other speaker gets fixed.Which port? Parallel port is my favorite choice since it outputs +5V (TTL logic level) and is very straightforward to program. So I think I have enough cushion to run in parallel in case one speaker happens to fail.
#SERIAL VS PARALLEL CUSTOM WATER LOOPS FULL#
I like speaker brake up, but I typically play less than full tilt, plus I typically play with lots of distortion which tends to produce slightly softer "low end" "high wattage" effects on the speakers, thats where I believe speaker damage would be more of a concern. If you always push your speakers really hard and at relatively clean settings, maybe this is not for you, better might be a full shut down, otherwise you'd likey ruin the other good speaker in short order. Hook them up in parallel and you get a safety margin so that at least one speaker should continue to operate even if the other speaker looses connection somewhere, just try to be careful not to blow up that speaker with the sudden burst of twice it's normal power! Hook them up in series, and you have no sound if one of the speakers happens to fail. So basically you can try both ways, and see which you prefer The best thing to do, in my opinion, is try both arrangements since you have the luxury of impedance tap selection, and go with the configuration you like the best. It's totally subjective, of course, and many factors affect the end result, such as voice coil size, gap energy, closed back/open back, output circuit damping, etc.
#SERIAL VS PARALLEL CUSTOM WATER LOOPS SERIES#
While that seems rather chaotic, many players prefer the series connection, as it gives them a more textured tone, enhanced breakup, and overall a more desireable tone for guitar work. For speakers connected in series, there appears to be less control, and more of what is called 'back EMF' from the speakers fed back into the output circuit. Since no two speakers are exactly alike, even two of the same size, that damping will occur, however slight, for any speakers connected in parallel. By connecting two speakers in parallel, particularly two speakers of different sizes with different resonant frequencies, each speaker will tend to quench or dampen the boominess of the other. A speaker has a large impedance increase at its fundamental resonance, and depending on the installation, this can cause the speaker to sound boomy or out of control. HIFI designers took it one step further by connecting two speakers of different sizes in parallel. Are there any sonic differences or benefits of series over parallel wiring or vice versa?Ī - Gerald, connecting two speakers in parallel is an old trick to smooth out speaker response and enhance the damping of either speaker. My amp has both 4 and 16 Ohm output taps.
Q - I have two 8 Ohm speakers that I can wire either in parallel or series to my tube amp, for an impedance of either 4 or 16 Ohm. Funny, the same question came up on AX84 yesterday, and here is what I posted, from the FAQs on Weber's Speakers BBS: